First Kit-Build
Switch to Print View - 19 posts
TW18
247
Registered Member
TW18
247
Feb 28, 2022#1
I would like to eventually build a guitar to compliment my D18. My end goal is to build a rosewood dread that has enough punch to solo in a bluegrass jam, but still sounds good for playing without a group. I'm thinking of a stewmac kit, replacing the soundboard with Adirondack, using hide glue, and FSSB.
I have heard that first time builds rarely turn out the way you plan. The only instrument I have built is a mountain banjo from scratch that turned out pretty well.
For the builders out there, should I start with a less expensive kit to iron out the mistakes, or was your first build a success?
Howard Klepper
7,7246,277
Registered Member
Howard Klepper
7,7246,277
Feb 28, 2022#2
What is FSSB?
I can't get no torrefaction
fbiannce
336253
Registered Member
fbiannce
336253
Feb 28, 2022#3
I'll take a guess (based upon a google search that implies it might be bracing related...)
Forward Shifted Scalloped Bracing?
Edit: Although, I suspect Forward Shifted Standard Bracing might also fit. Not a huge fan of acronym's that aren't used in full at least once or are patently obvious like CIA or FBI. YMFD (:)).
2019 Martin D-18 Modern Deluxe
1996 Martin 000-28 Golden Era (#69)
TW18 likes this post
1 person likes this post
MORE
TW18
247
Registered Member
TW18
247
Feb 28, 2022#4
Yes, Forward Shifted Scalloped Bracing.
Side question, to get more punch with Sitka would using straight braces or rear-shifted scalloped bracing (1 7/8") help? I know the reimagined D28 uses forward shifted straight bracing. There are definitely a lot of variables. Part of the fun
phavriluk
1,375832
Registered Member
phavriluk
1,375832
Mar 01, 2022#5
Specification chosen a priori have slight relationship to results without considering the characteristics of the wood bits themselves.
Peter Havriluk
SColumbusSt
1,080429
Registered Member
SColumbusSt
1,080429
Mar 01, 2022#6
You've got some building experience so you could jump right into a guitar but I'd highly recommend starting with a Stew Mac uke kit. They are under $100 and essentially mimic building a guitar although much simpler. I built my first one with my 12 year old son and we literally built it with glue, clothespins, rubber bands, a hammer, a file, and a drill. The end product looks like it was built by a couple of people who had never built an instrument but it plays in tune up the neck and was a ton of fun to build. As an added bonus if you screw something up Stew Mac will send you a replacement part free of charge.
Since then I've built five other kit ukes/guitars and have had a blast doing so and the end results have far exceeded my expectations. I do not know what your rationale for wanting to build a guitar is but if it is to enjoy the building process and play something that you made then I wholeheartedly encourage you to do so. If it is to save money then you will likely be disappointed, depending on the current state of your tool locker. I could have bought a nice Nazareth built Martin for all I've spent on clamps, routers, files, bits, chisels, planes, etc...
TW18, phavriluk like this post
2 people like this post
MORE
phavriluk
1,375832
Registered Member
phavriluk
1,375832
Mar 01, 2022#7
It took me twice as long to build the tooling for my first scratchbuilt guitar as it did to build the guitar. And it was way more costly than the guitar.
Peter Havriluk
TW18
247
Registered Member
TW18
247
Mar 01, 2022#8
SColumbusSt wrote: ↑
Mar 01, 2022
You've got some building experience so you could jump right into a guitar but I'd highly recommend starting with a Stew Mac uke kit. They are under $100 and essentially mimic building a guitar although much simpler. I built my first one with my 12 year old son and we literally built it with glue, clothespins, rubber bands, a hammer, a file, and a drill. The end product looks like it was built by a couple of people who had never built an instrument but it plays in tune up the neck and was a ton of fun to build. As an added bonus if you screw something up Stew Mac will send you a replacement part free of charge.Since then I've built five other kit ukes/guitars and have had a blast doing so and the end results have far exceeded my expectations. I do not know what your rationale for wanting to build a guitar is but if it is to enjoy the building process and play something that you made then I wholeheartedly encourage you to do so. If it is to save money then you will likely be disappointed, depending on the current state of your tool locker. I could have bought a nice Nazareth built Martin for all I've spent on clamps, routers, files, bits, chisels, planes, etc...
Hey that's a cool idea. I'm sure some of it will translate, and I could give it to my son. Thank you
tonguy likes this post
1 person likes this post
MORE
doingmybest
139
Registered Member
doingmybest
139
Mar 01, 2022#9
My first was a Stew Mac dread. I had virtually no wood building experience. It took me a long time. I had to practice many of the operations on junk guitars. I had to practice some things several times. I had to pause for days just to think of how to do something that sounded simple, with the tools I had. This was back when they sent an instructional CD, that was great. I re-watched each section several times along the way. At the time if you had purchased a kit you could call and get helpful advice over the phone. I remember making one call for help because one of my cam clamps would not open (it was clamping nothing). I had very few power tools. I went to a woodshop and traded a loaf of bread to a guy for him to bandsaw the fretboard width close enough for me to file and sand to fit. Anyway that guitar turned out great, not perfect. But it looked and still does like a well made pretty high end guitar and I love the sound. I basically loved the experience in large part because it was to me a huge learning experiment that turned out well. Just my experience. Whatever you choose, just decide to have fun with the process.
TW18 likes this post
1 person likes this post
MORE
Mar 01, 2022#10
Please note, I do not want to decide for you, and I am not saying that starting with an uke, or dulcimer would not have advantages. The experience from that building would build skill and confidence, and get you a complete instrument sooner.
Howard Klepper
7,7246,277
Registered Member
Howard Klepper
7,7246,277
Mar 01, 2022#11
If you think you can build a guitar, I think you should plan on succeeding rather than on failing. Go build, and use good wood.
I can't get no torrefaction
StillStephen, BillDuck, doingmybest, tonguy, TW18 plus 1 additional person liked this post
6 people like this post
MORE
Sarchfieldgtr
5560
Registered Member
Sarchfieldgtr
5560
Mar 19, 2022#12
My first build was a success and has served me well in a 4 piece bluegrass band. It's a sitka/ mahogany stewmac kit. It sounds decent, but the fit and finish aren't great.
Are you planning to continue building guitars after the first one? Tools and equipment costs can easily be more than a new D-28. It's a good hobby and you'll be proud to play whatever you build,
My suggestions are:
Consider sending it to a professional guitar finisher.
Buy the best sandpaper you can find.
Use good quarter sawn wood.
If you are going to change out the top wood or other components, look at buying a kit from someone who will make you a customized kit. Blues Creek Guitars can do that.
TW18
247
Registered Member
TW18
247
Mar 19, 2022#13
Sarchfieldgtr wrote: ↑
Mar 19, 2022
My first build was a success and has served me well in a 4 piece bluegrass band. It's a sitka/ mahogany stewmac kit. It sounds decent, but the fit and finish aren't great.Are you planning to continue building guitars after the first one? Tools and equipment costs can easily be more than a new D-28. It's a good hobby and you'll be proud to play whatever you build,
My suggestions are:
Consider sending it to a professional guitar finisher.
Buy the best sandpaper you can find.
Use good quarter sawn wood.
If you are going to change out the top wood or other components, look at buying a kit from someone who will make you a customized kit. Blues Creek Guitars can do that.
Thanks for the reply and suggestions. I am planning to continue building, so I'm looking at the tools as an investment. Definitely not expecting to save a bunch of money on this guitar!
I am planning to try a shellac finish, but am open to suggestions. I also looked at Blues Creek Guitars' kit page, but didn't think about asking for a custom kit. I'll send him an email when I'm closer to buying.
My goal for this guitar is to have a rosewood dread that I can use for leads as well as rhythm. I love the sound of rosewood when playing chords, but I never play amplified or with a mic so I am worried about it getting lost in the mix of a banjo, fiddle, and Dobro. I am hoping the Adirondack top will help with that.
Open to suggestions as well on other ways to help a rosewood guitar punch out for lead work.
mark-mc
423398
Registered Member
mark-mc
423398
Mar 19, 2022#14
Your first guitar can sound great, and be a real pleasure to play. It probably won’t look as fancy as a factory build - but it will make you realize that is actually the least important aspect of a good guitar. You have already been given some good advice, and some of mine repeats that:
- use good wood, because it will probably work out fine, and there is no point doing 150 hours of work for something made of cheap stuff. Also put good quality tuners on it.
- a kit is a good way to start, and is definitely not cheating, you still have a LOT of work to do.
- bolt on neck
- don’t over-think whether it will be better with FSSB or torrefied adirondack instead of sitka, or reverse-kerf linings, or whatever. All of those details amount to absolutely minimal difference in the end result. First time around the building process will be your main concern, not fancy design aspects.
- I think the easiest and most servicable finish for a first time builder is a hand applied oil finish such as Tru-oil or a hard-wax oil. Shellac is OK but true french polishing is a difficult skill, and bad french polishing looks blotchy. However, one saving grace is that you can overcoat shellac with anything else (like polyurethane or an oil finish) so if you start with shellac and then don’t like it you can switch without needing to sand back to bare wood.
- you don’t need to pore fill if you don’t want to.
- Not every guitar needs to be smooth and shiny like a pane of glass over the wood. But if you do want smooth and shiny - pay a professional to spray it. You won’t get a professional looking result yourself
- follow a plan, and buy some books (but you don’t need all of the books)
- I will say it again - bolt on neck
Mark McLean
Instrument builder and tinkerer - strictly amateur
Sydney, Australia
TW18, Palmetto Picker like this post
2 people like this post
MORE
Mike-p
240142
Registered Member
Mike-p
240142
Mar 19, 2022#15
I would use tru oil, especially on mahogany without pore fill super thin and looks beautiful.
Sent from my SM-J600FN using Tapatalk
Palmetto Picker
410357
Registered Member
Palmetto Picker
410357
Mar 19, 2022#16
TW18 wrote: ↑
Mar 19, 2022
Sarchfieldgtr wrote: ↑
Mar 19, 2022
My first build was a success and has served me well in a 4 piece bluegrass band. It's a sitka/ mahogany stewmac kit. It sounds decent, but the fit and finish aren't great.Are you planning to continue building guitars after the first one? Tools and equipment costs can easily be more than a new D-28. It's a good hobby and you'll be proud to play whatever you build,
My suggestions are:
Consider sending it to a professional guitar finisher.
Buy the best sandpaper you can find.
Use good quarter sawn wood.
If you are going to change out the top wood or other components, look at buying a kit from someone who will make you a customized kit. Blues Creek Guitars can do that.Thanks for the reply and suggestions. I am planning to continue building, so I'm looking at the tools as an investment. Definitely not expecting to save a bunch of money on this guitar!
I am planning to try a shellac finish, but am open to suggestions. I also looked at Blues Creek Guitars' kit page, but didn't think about asking for a custom kit. I'll send him an email when I'm closer to buying.
My goal for this guitar is to have a rosewood dread that I can use for leads as well as rhythm. I love the sound of rosewood when playing chords, but I never play amplified or with a mic so I am worried about it getting lost in the mix of a banjo, fiddle, and Dobro. I am hoping the Adirondack top will help with that.
Open to suggestions as well on other ways to help a rosewood guitar punch out for lead work.
I've built many mandolins but only a few acoustic guitars, a few considerations for you:
•For kits I'd take a good look at Luthiers Merchantile. They have very high quality kits and a "kit wizard" program where you can select your own components. If you decide to go a la carte, they offer services such as side bending and slotting fretboards.
•As finishes go, shellac is not a durable one. It hardens quite brittle (just look at a shellac flake sometime) so it may be good tonewise, but has little resistance to water and solvents. If you don't mind the pre war style relicing, it could turn out pretty cool. As someone else mentioned, you could do a thin topcoat of something like a wipe on poly.
•For a strong punch through tone for soloing you are correct about unscalloped bracing. The extra meat in the X brace puts more meat in the single notes. My Bourgeois D Vintage (rosewood and adi) has hybrid bracing where the bass side of the X brace is scalloped and the treble side is straight. That guitar has really strong, defined notes and is such a powerhouse that I don't even keep full medium gauge strings on it.
* Voicing of a flattop guitar is quite complex and it takes years of experience and many builds to reach the point where a luthier can instinctively produce the results they are shooting for. This is why at my age, even though I have luthier skills and tools, I've opted to buy guitars of Martin and Bourgeois quality rather than muster through the process and hope for a mediocre result. I would recommend you get a reliable set of detailed traditional plans and stick to them, particularly in regards to bracing and tone bar carving. Enjoy the experience!
Tampa Bay
2021 Martin Custom Shop 18 Style
2021 Bourgeois Vintage D
TW18 likes this post
1 person likes this post
MORE
doingmybest
139
Registered Member
doingmybest
139
Mar 19, 2022#17
Just another 2 cents worth from my experience.
I think I will go bolt on if I make another one. I find it difficult to really understand the dove tail.
I did a shellac french polish on the two I built, and loved the process, and the results. It took some practice, but I was not in a hurry. I am not particularly drawn to a high gloss finish, and the finish on mine is still beautiful to me. No dangerous fumes to deal with, and you get to use your hands directly to create the results, and for me it helped me feel a connection to the "old way" of craftsmanship.
I agree that filling pores is optional. I did not (rosewood back and sides).
TW18 likes this post
1 person likes this post
MORE
Alan Carruth
2,1841,539
Registered Member
Alan Carruth
2,1841,539
Mar 20, 2022#18
In my experience of thirty+ years of teaching, I'd say that almost nobody builds just one.
The guitar as we have it is an extremely robust design that has been optimized through generations of refinement. If you use reasonably good wood, and work carefully to a known spec, you should end up with a better than average guitar. For the first time out it doesn't make any sense to get 'Holy Grail' wood; you are unlikely to end up with a significantly better instrument for the extra cost, and there's always the chance of messing it up. I always hate it when a new student comes in with a set of expensive wood that they've already taken down too thin to use. Later, when you know more, is the time to do spend some money on really fancy wood.
IMO it's hard to beat a good set of Indian rosewood for the B&S, and spruce is pretty much all spruce when you take it's density into account. If you want to go for 'domestic' wood, Black Locust is 'improved' IRW, and if you don't like the light color you can fume it with ammonia.
Don't get fancy with trim. It adds lots of time to the build without much payoff. Simple and clean is far more impressive than fancy and sloppy.
Take your time. Learn to sharpen. Take notes. An app such as 'Luthier Lab', free for Android devices, can be a big help in that respect, since it has modules for drawing plans, recording the various steps using annotated, pictures, and tools such as a spectrum analyzer to help you figure out what you did.
Palmetto Picker, TW18 like this post
2 people like this post
MORE
TW18
247
Registered Member
TW18
247
Mar 20, 2022#19
Alan Carruth wrote: ↑
Mar 20, 2022
In my experience of thirty+ years of teaching, I'd say that almost nobody builds just one.The guitar as we have it is an extremely robust design that has been optimized through generations of refinement. If you use reasonably good wood, and work carefully to a known spec, you should end up with a better than average guitar. For the first time out it doesn't make any sense to get 'Holy Grail' wood; you are unlikely to end up with a significantly better instrument for the extra cost, and there's always the chance of messing it up. I always hate it when a new student comes in with a set of expensive wood that they've already taken down too thin to use. Later, when you know more, is the time to do spend some money on really fancy wood.
IMO it's hard to beat a good set of Indian rosewood for the B&S, and spruce is pretty much all spruce when you take it's density into account. If you want to go for 'domestic' wood, Black Locust is 'improved' IRW, and if you don't like the light color you can fume it with ammonia.
Don't get fancy with trim. It adds lots of time to the build without much payoff. Simple and clean is far more impressive than fancy and sloppy.
Take your time. Learn to sharpen. Take notes. An app such as 'Luthier Lab', free for Android devices, can be a big help in that respect, since it has modules for drawing plans, recording the various steps using annotated, pictures, and tools such as a spectrum analyzer to help you figure out what you did.
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll check out that app